Emollients, Proteins & Humectants in Hair Care

Emollients, proteins and humectants are three complementary stages in hair care. Proteins fill in the gaps in the hair structure, humectants moisturise whereas emollients lock water in hair. The order you apply them is essential: first, we apply repairing proteins. Next, we move on to hydrating humectants. Finally, it’s time for protective emollients. What are the benefits of these substances and in what products to search for them?

Emollients – properties

Emollients have moisturising power and protect hair from the loss of hydration. Their work involves blocking channels in the skin through which water gets out. Emollients are mostly made up of fatty and hydrophilic acids, and fats.

Emollients – in what products can you find them?

Emollients are found in oils, masks and conditioners, among others:

• coconut oil,
• argan oil,
• Shea butter,
• silicones,
• paraffin.

Proteins – properties

Amino acids build both human hair and proteins. That is why the proteins are meant for filling in gaps in the hair structure. Consequently, hair stops being brittle and fragile. Proteins are cut out for naturally wavy or curly hair, defining it.

Proteins – in what products can you find them?

Proteins are included in conditioners and masks. The most popular ones are:

• keratin,
• collagen,
• silk,
• Sericin,
• elastin,
• wheat proteins,
• corn proteins.

Humectants – properties

Humectants have hygroscopic properties, in other words – they attract water molecules as well as store them in hair. That’s the reason why they’re called the moisturizers. Interestingly, if we fail to provide humectants with sufficient water, they start absorbing it from our skin and hair. This entails a risk of extremely dry hair. Therefore, together with humectants, we should apply emollients which protect hair from the loss of moisture.

Humectants – in what products can you find them?

Similarly to proteins, humectants are contained in masks and conditioners. Take a look at the most popular ones:

• urea,
• hyaluronic acid,
• D-panthenol,
• glycerol,
• Aloe,
• sodium lactate.